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alright everyone. there have been a few threads here talking about the millenia maf conversion. yet none explain how to do it without reading through 10+ pages of posts. so heres my attempt at a how to for this conversion
a couple things to note before beginning:
1. this is obd2 only. the obd1 millenia did not come with a maf
2. any wire connections made should be souldered just to be sure its a good connection
3. please do not PM me with questions. i think itd be more beneficial to post them here so anyone who happens to have the same question will be able to find the answer
4. this works best if you do NOT have a stock intake. i have not tried it with the stock intake but it seems to be easier with an aftermarket one. also cold air intake does make a significant difference in this application
5. millenia MAP sensor is NOT needed
lets begin:
first, here is a list of the necessary parts:
1. 96 millenia (non-S) ecu. number KLG8 on it.
2. KL47 maf. another common find is the KJ01 maf. though it has not been tested, i have yet to find a reason why its any different.
3. IAT sensor. this is not a millenia specific sensor. i have read that one from a miata has been used as well. found simply on rockauto under 96 millenia
4. pigtails for both the maf and iat sensors
5. rubber grommet around the iat from the stock milly intake
6. i believe a stock probe CPS pigtail has been used instead of the maf pigtail. just another option
7. noise filter (may not be necessary and will be explained more below)
tools needed:
power drill
5/8" drill bit
soldering iron
solder
16-14 gauge wire
wire cutter/stripper/crimper
screwdriver
------------
step .5:
disconnect battery
step 1:
unplug the vaf and remove the whole intake
step 2:
the maf will directly swap places with the vaf. with that in mind, remove all couplers from the tube that goes from the vaf to the air filter.
step 3:
with the tube in hand, grab your drill. drill a hole in the tube, placing the iat between the maf and the filter. has been done with iat placed between tb and maf but i have had better results putting it before the maf as thats how it is on the milly
step 4:
take the rubber grommet and shove it in this hole. it will be a tough fit. i got mine in with a half inch bit and a little extra material removed with a dremel. so 5/8" should work just fine.
step 5:
after you force the grommet into the hole, push the iat sensor in there. this may also be difficult if the hole you drilled is a bit small. with enough muscle it'll go. set this tube and intake stuff aside
step 6:
you have a couple options here. either you can de-pin the vaf connector and reinsert the pins into the maf and iat connectors.
or
you can splice in the maf and iat pigtail into the vaf wires. making both maf and vaf connectors useable for quick swapping back and forth if neccessary.
i did not use any of the connectors. i just depinned the vaf and plugged the individual pins into the maf and iat.
either way its your choice. here is how the wires should be:
VAF pin 1 (red) -> MAF pin 2 (Millenia harness: brown/red, CPS harness: green)
VAF pin 2 (brown) -> No Connection (this is where +12v power will be)
VAF pin 3 (black/blue) -> MAF pin 3 (Millenia harness: black/blue, CPS harness: red)
VAF pin 4 (black/blue) -> IAT pin 2 (Millenia harness: black/yellow)
VAF pin 5 (black/red) -> IAT pin 1 (Millenia harness: orange/blue)
+12V source (o2 sensor heater/ ignition relay/ etc) -> MAF pin 1 (Millenia harness: red/black)
most have used the ignition relay switched +12v for the power for the maf. simply take the relay out, strip the wire about half an inch. place it in the terminal and push the relay back in pinching the wire in there.
some of you, like me, will either have a purple wire instead of the brown one. or the brown color has changed to purple over the years. its the same wire and will not be used for the maf.
the black and blue wires are grounds. it does not matter where they are plugged in.
the order of the wires on the iat is not important
be sure to solder all connections if you chose not to depin the connectors. and shrink wrap or wrap in electrical tape all the connections as well
step 7:
now that you have all your pigtails wired up, put the intake back together. the maf has a screen on it. that screen should face the filter. plug your connecters in. thats it for the engine bay
step 8:
remove your stock ecu. you must remove the panel around the shifter and ebrake. then the panel with the heater controls and radio. this part is difficult as there are 4 screws holding in the ecu. two on the left and two on the right. they are located on the corners near the connectors. there are no screws way in the back. its a pain in the ass but you'll get it out eventually
step 9:
plug in your KLG8 ecu. i didnt bother to screw the new ecu back up since its a pain. it wont matter.
step 10:
reconnect the battery and start the car!
photos:
here is a photo of the wire colors and locations. the maf is upside down but facing the correct direction. keep that in mind
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0122.jpg
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0117.jpg
iat wires
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0119.jpg
fuse panel
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0121.jpg
overall intake setup. not as ideal as a true CAI. itll be changing soon
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0120.jpg
---------- Post added at 02:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:50 PM ----------
troubleshooting:
1. you will get a check engine light if yer car is mtx. thats cuz this ecu is for an atx. it will not effect you at all.
2. if, when you start the car, you cannot rev the engine past about 4k rpm, your maf wiring is wrong or your maf is bad. check and double check wiring and connections. make sure you are getting +12v
3. you may hear popples/crackles from the exhaust. particularly right between decel and accel. its normal.
4. i ended up installing a noise filter:
http://www.worldwidedx.com/home-brew...on-filter.html. inline to the power to the maf and grounded to the frame. i had issues with power fluctuating and this is there to make sure the maf gets steady power. not necessary unless you also have these issues.
if you have any other issues or questions feel free to post here.
if i have missed anything in this how to please let me know and ill edit it accordingly
a couple things to note before beginning:
1. this is obd2 only. the obd1 millenia did not come with a maf
2. any wire connections made should be souldered just to be sure its a good connection
3. please do not PM me with questions. i think itd be more beneficial to post them here so anyone who happens to have the same question will be able to find the answer
4. this works best if you do NOT have a stock intake. i have not tried it with the stock intake but it seems to be easier with an aftermarket one. also cold air intake does make a significant difference in this application
5. millenia MAP sensor is NOT needed
lets begin:
first, here is a list of the necessary parts:
1. 96 millenia (non-S) ecu. number KLG8 on it.
2. KL47 maf. another common find is the KJ01 maf. though it has not been tested, i have yet to find a reason why its any different.
3. IAT sensor. this is not a millenia specific sensor. i have read that one from a miata has been used as well. found simply on rockauto under 96 millenia
4. pigtails for both the maf and iat sensors
5. rubber grommet around the iat from the stock milly intake
6. i believe a stock probe CPS pigtail has been used instead of the maf pigtail. just another option
7. noise filter (may not be necessary and will be explained more below)
tools needed:
power drill
5/8" drill bit
soldering iron
solder
16-14 gauge wire
wire cutter/stripper/crimper
screwdriver
------------
step .5:
disconnect battery
step 1:
unplug the vaf and remove the whole intake
step 2:
the maf will directly swap places with the vaf. with that in mind, remove all couplers from the tube that goes from the vaf to the air filter.
step 3:
with the tube in hand, grab your drill. drill a hole in the tube, placing the iat between the maf and the filter. has been done with iat placed between tb and maf but i have had better results putting it before the maf as thats how it is on the milly
step 4:
take the rubber grommet and shove it in this hole. it will be a tough fit. i got mine in with a half inch bit and a little extra material removed with a dremel. so 5/8" should work just fine.
step 5:
after you force the grommet into the hole, push the iat sensor in there. this may also be difficult if the hole you drilled is a bit small. with enough muscle it'll go. set this tube and intake stuff aside
step 6:
you have a couple options here. either you can de-pin the vaf connector and reinsert the pins into the maf and iat connectors.
or
you can splice in the maf and iat pigtail into the vaf wires. making both maf and vaf connectors useable for quick swapping back and forth if neccessary.
i did not use any of the connectors. i just depinned the vaf and plugged the individual pins into the maf and iat.
either way its your choice. here is how the wires should be:
VAF pin 1 (red) -> MAF pin 2 (Millenia harness: brown/red, CPS harness: green)
VAF pin 2 (brown) -> No Connection (this is where +12v power will be)
VAF pin 3 (black/blue) -> MAF pin 3 (Millenia harness: black/blue, CPS harness: red)
VAF pin 4 (black/blue) -> IAT pin 2 (Millenia harness: black/yellow)
VAF pin 5 (black/red) -> IAT pin 1 (Millenia harness: orange/blue)
+12V source (o2 sensor heater/ ignition relay/ etc) -> MAF pin 1 (Millenia harness: red/black)
most have used the ignition relay switched +12v for the power for the maf. simply take the relay out, strip the wire about half an inch. place it in the terminal and push the relay back in pinching the wire in there.
some of you, like me, will either have a purple wire instead of the brown one. or the brown color has changed to purple over the years. its the same wire and will not be used for the maf.
the black and blue wires are grounds. it does not matter where they are plugged in.
the order of the wires on the iat is not important
be sure to solder all connections if you chose not to depin the connectors. and shrink wrap or wrap in electrical tape all the connections as well
step 7:
now that you have all your pigtails wired up, put the intake back together. the maf has a screen on it. that screen should face the filter. plug your connecters in. thats it for the engine bay
step 8:
remove your stock ecu. you must remove the panel around the shifter and ebrake. then the panel with the heater controls and radio. this part is difficult as there are 4 screws holding in the ecu. two on the left and two on the right. they are located on the corners near the connectors. there are no screws way in the back. its a pain in the ass but you'll get it out eventually
step 9:
plug in your KLG8 ecu. i didnt bother to screw the new ecu back up since its a pain. it wont matter.
step 10:
reconnect the battery and start the car!
photos:
here is a photo of the wire colors and locations. the maf is upside down but facing the correct direction. keep that in mind
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0122.jpg
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0117.jpg
iat wires
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0119.jpg
fuse panel
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0121.jpg
overall intake setup. not as ideal as a true CAI. itll be changing soon
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/CIMG0120.jpg
---------- Post added at 02:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:50 PM ----------
troubleshooting:
1. you will get a check engine light if yer car is mtx. thats cuz this ecu is for an atx. it will not effect you at all.
2. if, when you start the car, you cannot rev the engine past about 4k rpm, your maf wiring is wrong or your maf is bad. check and double check wiring and connections. make sure you are getting +12v
3. you may hear popples/crackles from the exhaust. particularly right between decel and accel. its normal.
4. i ended up installing a noise filter:
http://www.worldwidedx.com/home-brew...on-filter.html. inline to the power to the maf and grounded to the frame. i had issues with power fluctuating and this is there to make sure the maf gets steady power. not necessary unless you also have these issues.
if you have any other issues or questions feel free to post here.
if i have missed anything in this how to please let me know and ill edit it accordingly
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